Sothebys Geneva 10 November Treasures of Time
By Wouter van Wijk
Some real heavy hitters from Patek here.
Lot 4 Lot 4: A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon ‘Pour le Mérite’ in Platinum
This A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon ‘Pour le Mérite’ crafted in platinum was part of a limited 1996 edition of 50 pieces, created just two years after the brand resumed production. This watch combines a tourbillon with a rare fusée-and-chain transmission, enhancing precision by mitigating gravity's effects and delivering consistent power. Known by reference 701.005, this platinum version is celebrated as a revival of A. Lange & Söhne’s high watchmaking legacy. c
These versions of the TPM were made (check Alp Sever his excellent article https://langepedia.com/encyclopedia/tourbillon-pour-le-merite/ for more info):
- 106 in yellow gold (701.001/751.001)
- 19 in white gold ( 701.007) – one unique piece sold at Christie’s for CHF 437.5k in 2014
- 24 in rose gold (701.011)
- 50 in platinum (701.005) – one unique piece with pink gold dial sold at Sotheby’s for CHF 314.5k in 2011; one unique piece at 36.5 mms sold at Dr.Crott for a record €330k in 2012.
- 1 in steel
The esitimate for this pice is quite high since the market for ALS has quite cooled down. nevertheless this is a rare opportunity to acquire a real cool piece of watchmaking history.
Estimate
250,000 - 500,000 CHF
Lot 7-8 Vacheron ConstantinReference 3307 | A yellow gold mono-pusher
These two lots consist of mono pusher chronograph wristwatches made for King Alexander I of Yugoslavia and were made in 1927. Really interesting pedigree and such a gorgeous looking watch with a super nice complication. Both watches are not perfect but very nice.
Estimate
70,000 - 100,000 CHF
Lot 16: Patek Philippe First Series Reference 2499
This Patek Philippe First Series Reference 2499 perpetual calendar chronograph in pink gold is estimated at CHF 2,500,000 – CHF 5,000,000; yes a heavy hitter!
Patek Philippe Reference 2499 ‘First Series’ in pink gold is a grail for many collectors. This watch belongs to one of the most esteemed lineages in watchmaking. This particular example is notably unique, being the only publicly known First Series pink gold 2499 with a Wenger case instead of the more common Vichet. While two other pink gold First Series 2499 models with Wenger cases exist, they remain in private collections, making this the only one available to the public. The Patek Philippe Museum does not even have an example, emphasizing its rarity and historical significance.
While the differences between the Wenger and Vichet cases are subtle, they are significant. The Vichet case is approximately 1.5 mm smaller and has a flat case back, while the Wenger case is slightly larger with more sculptural lugs, enhancing its wrist presence.
This is only the second time this watch has been offered, originally surfacing in 2012 from the family of its first owner. Its excellent condition reflects the care it has received, with crisp hallmarks and a well-preserved dial featuring original off-white patina.
Acquiring a watch of this caliber is extremely rare. Reference 2499 was produced between 1950 and 1985 in four series and is considered one of the most significant perpetual calendar chronographs ever made, designed as the successor to the iconic Reference 1518.
Only 349 examples of reference 2499 were produced, with just 55 made in the first series, and among these, only six are known in pink gold (out of 33 pink gold models made in total). Uniquely, this example features a Wenger case rather than the usual Vichet, making it the only known first series pink gold piece with this case style. The Wenger case, measuring 37.5 mm with sculptural lugs, is 1.5 mm larger than the Vichet case and has a distinctive design with a rounder caseback. Reference 2499 follows Patek Philippe’s first perpetual calendar chronograph, the reference 1518, and is revered for its rectangular pushers in the first series. This watch is coming to market for only the second time, having last sold in 2012 at Christie’s in Geneva for CHF 2,547,000, well above its high estimate of 1,800,000.
Estimate
2,500,000 - 5,000,000 CHF
Lot 18 Patek Philippe 1563 split seconds chronograph with taste tondi pushers and Breguet luminous hour markers
The Reference 1463 marked a significant milestone in Patek Philippe’s manufacturing history, being the brand's first fully waterproof chronograph—and notably, the only one until 2018. This model remained in production until 1965.
In 1924: Taubert & Fils took over The Borgel Company. One year later the new firm registered as "Manufacture Des Boîts Borgel, Taubert & Fils". And the Taubert family certainly carried on using the FB trade mark into at least the late 1960s.
By 1941, case maker Taubert was crafting Patek Philippe's first waterproof chronograph case, the Reference 1463, available in both steel and gold. Known as the “tasti tondi,” the 1463 was released four years after the Reference 130 in 1940. So why "taste tondi"? The so-called sunburst and knurled pushers are identical for References 1463 and 1563 as well as the Mido Multi-Centerchrono, which collectors refer to as “Tasti Tondi,” meaning “round buttons” in Italian. The steel Patek 1463 is housed in a Borgel case, and the Mido Multi-Centerchrono features the same winding crown as the 1463. Overall, the case of the Mido resembles that of the Patek 1463, though it appears slightly less fluid and refined in my opinion.
Taubert also produced screw-down waterproof cases for Patek references like the Ref. 1563, which is the split-seconds version of the 1463 which we have here. This is one of only three known Reference 1563 watches and the only one featuring a Breguet numeral dial. The reference gained fame when jazz legend Duke Ellington wore one during his peak (his exact watch is now in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva). The caseback of the piece for sale is engraved with the signature “L. Estée” and the initials “S.G.H.” Its dial differs from the other two known examples, as it features Breguet numerals typically found on steel versions. The numerals and track are crafted in hard enamel, and this is the sole example with luminous-treated numerals and hands. The 35 mm watch last sold for CHF 1,445,000 at a Christie’s auction in 2013.
Estimate
1,000,000 - 3,000,000 CHF
Lot 22: Patek Philippe Reference 2499 in Yellow Gold with Black Lacquer Dial
One of the world's most notable collectors approached Patek Philippe's management in the mid-1980s to create a dial design for his reference 2499 that exceeded the typical sophistication favored by the broader clientele. He requested a black lacquer dial featuring gold Breguet numerals, with all scales and signatures in a beige-gold tone. Remarkably, this request was approved.
The project was assigned to Stern Frères, who executed it flawlessly. Interestingly, a document from 1987 was found in the Stern Frères archive, detailing the initial stages of the project and noting the delivery date—the result was simply stunning.
This is a third series Patek Philippe Reference 2499 in yellow gold, featuring a black lacquer dial with applied gold Breguet numerals and outer Arabic five-minute divisions. Made in 1963, it measures 37.5 mm, slightly larger than earlier series. This watch is prominently described and illustrated on pages 116 and 117 of Patek Philippe Complicated Wrist Watches by Paolo de Vecchi and Giorgio Gregato. It was sold at a Christie’s auction in 2010 for CHF 579,000.
Estimate
1,000,000 - 3,000,000 CHF