Sothebys Geneva 10-12 November Important watches
by Wouter van Wijk
Following the Treasures of Time auction these are some of the other interesting watches sold at the Sothebys Important watches I auction.
Lot 101 Piaget ‘Beta 21’, reference 14101 C10 | A white gold wristwatch with bracelet | Circa 1972
The “Quartz Crisis” of the 1970s shook the Swiss watch industry as affordable and precise Japanese quartz watches threatened the traditional craftsmanship of Swiss brands. In response, Swiss manufacturers developed their own quartz movement, the now iconic Beta 21 caliber. This revolutionary movement, known for its precision, resulted from an unprecedented collaboration among 20 Swiss brands, including Patek Philippe and Rolex, and produced a limited run of just 6,000 movements.
During Piaget’s golden age, designer Jean-Claude Gueit created a defining case for the Beta 21. Legend has it that the inspiration for the stepped case design came to him when he saw his son, Emmanuel, asleep with three fingers protruding from his mouth—a detail that later shaped the watch’s iconic design. Emmanuel Gueit would go on to become a celebrated designer himself, creating the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “The Beast,” reference 25721ST.
Jean-Claude Gueit was one of his era’s most talented designers, credited with inventing the rainbow gem-setting technique and creating the Piaget Polo and Baume & Mercier Riviera collections. His Beta 21 design, with its bold, oversized case and striking onyx black dial, has endured as an emblem of 1970s innovation, making it a must-have for serious collectors today.
Estimate
16,000 - 28,000 CHF
Lot 103 Patek Philippe'Flying Saucer', Reference 3472 | A yellow gold wristwatch designed by Gilbert Albert | Made in 1963
Have never ever seen this really awkward piece before designed by no one other than Gilbert Albert. Looks like a converted pocket watch but it actually is not. Other comparable piece (movement no. 793'748, case no. 2'632'608) once sold at Christies 2010 - Important watches Geneva
Estimate
20,000 - 40,000 CHF
Lot 123 Cartier Tank Normale | A platinum and yellow gold wristwatch | Circa 1920
Super nice Tank Normale in platinum . What is really interesting about this piece is the case construction. Platinum case with a yellow gold case-back. With their platinum bracelets as delivered on pre-war Cartiers wristwatches they used to make the boucle deployante from yellow gold. Now we also see a yellow gold case-back. Please ask and do your own research about the condition of the watch and in particular the dial. Often these are restored/reprinted and not disclosed by auction houses due to obliviance or on purpose.
Estimate
40,000 - 60,000 CHF
Lot 124 Audemars PiguetRoyal Oak ‘Royal Khanjar’, Reference 6023AC | A white and yellow gold diamond-set wristwatch with Khanjar dial, date and bracelet | Circa 1980
As you all might know by now The Royal Oak was introduced in 1972 and designed by the legendary Gerald Genta. It was the first luxury sports watch crafted in stainless steel. This particular reference 6023AC Royal Oak stands out with its opulent two-tone white and yellow gold finish and its special commission by the Sultan of Oman, His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said. Its dial prominently features the Omani emblem, the "Khanjar" daggers, at the lower section, and is further enhanced with diamond-set indexes.
Estimate
20,000 - 30,000 CHF
Lot 128 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept, Reference 25980AI.OO.D003SU.01
In 2002, Audemars Piguet took the Royal Oak’s legacy further with the launch of the “Concept” line—a radical evolution building on Gérald Genta's original design, surpassing even the Offshore model in futuristic design. Crafted through a visionary collaboration with Renaud and Papi, this new model featured a rounded yet angular case that preserved Genta’s distinctive DNA while pushing boundaries to captivate modern audiences.
Inside the case, the watch is powered by the highly advanced caliber 2896, showcasing a tourbillon with a spring-shaped bridge for improved shock resistance and a dynamograph to regulate torque. The entire movement is also suspended, a feature that enhances accuracy and precision. Additionally, a unique function selector replaces traditional crown settings, allowing users to toggle seamlessly between “winding,” “time setting,” and “neutral.”
The present piece is part of the first “Concept” series, limited to 150 examples. The line has since become an iconic part of the Audemars Piguet collection, but at its release, this trailblazing design was both disruptive and attention-grabbing—a frontrunner in pushing boundaries that would later inspire the aesthetic and technical direction of brands like Richard Mille.
Estimate
90,000 - 150,000 CHF
Lot 306 Tiffany & Co. A yellow gold minute repeating split-second chronograph wristwatch | Circa 1920
This minute repeating split-second chronograph wristwatch from Tiffany& Co New York has an incredible movement that is most probably made by Patek Philippe like the majority of repeating movements by Tiffany & Co. Just compare it with this lot https://www.phillips.com/detail/andersen-geneve/CH080524/19 as sold by Phillips. Mind the display caseback, so you can be sure it's a later conversion. Nevertheless interesting cause when Svend Andersen would have done this it would be way more expensive!
Estimate
10,000 - 15,000 CHF
Lot 424 Paul Picot La Rattrapante | A yellow gold perpetual calendar split-second chronograph wristwatch with moon phases | Circa 2001
If you are a movement guy or girl, look no further. This is the pinnacle from Venus the split seconds calendar caliber 179/185 with a calendar module. To my knowledge this is not a perpetual module. One should buy this piece which is not that rare and let if customize by a watchmaker such as Atelier the Chronometrie.
Estimate
8,000 - 12,000 CHF